When Calls the Heart, COSTUME DESIGN, Hallmark
Season 12 of When Calls the Heart has brought viewers into a new era, both in storytelling and fashion. Costume designer Barbara Gregusova sat down to discuss the challenges, inspirations, and intricate details behind the wardrobe choices for this season. With new characters arriving in Hope Valley and period-appropriate fashion evolving into the 1920s, the task of designing costumes has never been more complex—or rewarding.
The Evolution of Costumes in Season 12
In a recent interview, When Calls the Heart actress Pascale Hutton described this season in three words, the first being “costumes.” Gregusova believes this choice reflects the extensive costume work that went into Season 12, introducing numerous outfits never seen before in Hope Valley.
“We had to stock up on pieces we didn’t have. Some costumes didn’t exist for rent or purchase in Vancouver, so we had to custom-fit many background characters specifically for certain scenes,” she explained. The challenge was not just in finding the right pieces but also in ensuring historical accuracy while accommodating a growing and evolving cast.
The transition into the 1920s meant a significant shift in clothing styles, particularly for women. Hemlines were rising, silhouettes were changing, and fabrics were becoming more intricate. “We are moving into an era where fashion is becoming more modern,” Gregusova noted. “Hope Valley is slowly catching up, but we still want to maintain its signature look while reflecting the times.”
Creating Costumes for Expanding Storylines
One of the biggest challenges this season was not being able to catch our breath (Barbara laughs). The season was packed with new characters and big ensemble scenes, some of which took us outside of Hope Valley, all while maintaining consistency for returning characters and our show regulars. Not to mention the specialty costumes—like Nathan’s undercover look—it was definitely our biggest costume season yet!
Season 12 introduced several new characters, including Oliver, Edie, Wyatt, Ava, and soon, Georgie. Each of these characters required their own unique wardrobe, which had to be distinct yet cohesive within Hope Valley’s aesthetic.
“For Edie, there was no question she’d wear pants while riding a horse. It fit her character and made sense,” Gregusova shared. She revealed that one pair of trousers worn by Edie came from Banana Republic but was chosen because its cut fit the 1920s period. Edie’s wardrobe is another example of when you buy ahead of time in hopes that someone will be able to wear it later. “I buy it because I know it will not be there later… like the blue pinstripe suit and then the white one. I knew what we could do with them.”
For Oliver, a character who appears in multiple episodes, Gregusova created a longer-lasting closet for him, starting with Oliver’s uniform looks and casual wardrobe. “If we see something that we know has potential, we just get it. We don’t buy expensive things, but we think ahead,” she said.
Ava’s character required special attention, as her arrival in Hope Valley meant she had no existing wardrobe. “There was a scene where she had to buy a dress in Hope Valley, so we needed two versions—one original and one reconstructed to show the change,” Gregusova said. This approach helped maintain authenticity within the storyline while also visually reflecting Ava’s transition into the town’s culture.
Budget Constraints and Creative Solutions
Gregusova highlighted that working within a budget is always on her mind. “You work with a certain budget every season, but as soon as things get more elaborate, you have to figure out how to make it happen with what you have. If it is not possible to achieve the script’s needs within our regular costume budget, you need to ask: What is it going to take to make the scripted vision happen?” she said.
For example, acquiring historically accurate costumes can be difficult. “As soon as we got to 1920, we knew we were not able to rent the costumes we needed in Vancouver. When it comes to purchasing anything 1920s, we knew it would be rare to find in Vancouver, and the true vintage pieces available online were too expensive for us.” Instead, the costume department had to reconstruct, repurpose, or create pieces from scratch. “It becomes a very unique and creative process, combining all the resources available to us.”
One of the most interesting budget-conscious finds was a $30 dress that ended up being featured prominently in the season. “I was at a mall where I don’t usually shop, and I found this dress on clearance. It was damaged, but I knew it had potential. Their credit card machine wasn’t working, so I had to call my dad to bring me cash,” Gregusova laughed. The dress was altered and repurposed to fit the show’s needs, proving that great costume pieces don’t have to come with a hefty price tag.
The dress was ultimately worn by Elizabeth in the memorable side-saddle horse-riding scene. “We had to alter it by fixing the damage, adjusting the sleeves to fit the 1920s style, and adding a belt to make it work for her character,” Gregusova said. The floral detailing on the dress was a perfect match for the romantic and classic aesthetic of Elizabeth’s wardrobe this season.
For larger group scenes, such as Allie’s party, Gregusova and her team had to outfit numerous background characters in dressier attire. “We had never done a scene with dressed-up teens, so it was something we didn’t have in our When Calls the Heart stock. We fit every background performer, and the costume on camera was specifically tailored to them.”
Allie’s dress was another example of seeing a dress in a store and knowing it could be altered to fit her. “It was just too big, but it seemed like the perfect dress for Allie, and because you cannot buy the fabric, you reconstruct it.” (Photo Credits: Barbara Gregusova and Christina Sellinger)
Attention to Detail and Character Continuity
Costume continuity plays a crucial role in maintaining the show’s authenticity. Gregusova explained how she ensures characters’ wardrobes match from episode to episode. “We shoot two episodes per block, and when setting up the lineup, I have to think about what each character is wearing in relation to others,” she said.
Oftentimes, costumes are matched intentionally. “For example, we might have characters in different shades of the same color. It’s about making sure it looks visually cohesive,” she said.
Elizabeth’s schoolhouse scene in episode four was one example of a costume receiving extra attention. “She was teaching the children to dance, and then she danced with Nathan. That skirt had buttons along the bottom and a crisscross detail, which took a lot of time to reconstruct,” Gregusova explained.
Another striking look this season was Nathan’s off-white tuxedo. Initially, she thought a dark pinstripe suit would work, but Kevin McGarry, who plays Nathan, sent her a picture of a white dinner jacket. “We had to go through approvals—Hallmark, the director, even the camera department had input,” Gregusova explained. They eventually found the perfect off-white rental that fit the period and the scene.
The Gatsby-Inspired Party and Reconstruction of Vintage Pieces
A highly anticipated scene this season is the Gatsby-style party, where characters step outside of their usual wardrobe for a glamorous evening. Finding accurate 1920s party dresses was a challenge, as they aren’t readily available. “We ordered dresses that we could reconstruct, since you can’t just go out and buy period pieces like that in Vancouver,” Gregusova shared. Unfortunately, one shipment almost didn’t arrive in time.
Elizabeth’s dress for the party required extensive alterations. “We originally picked another dress, but Erin asked if we could revisit one we had set aside. After adding beading and making modifications, it ended up being the best choice,” she said.
Looking Ahead: Costume Surprises in Season 12
Gregusova hinted at upcoming surprises that fans will enjoy. “There’s a scene where we reused pieces from previous seasons in a way I was really happy about,” she said. Without giving away spoilers, she promised that eagle-eyed fans will recognize elements from past outfits creatively repurposed in Season 12.
As Hope Valley continues to expand and evolve, so too will its fashion. “Newcomers will bring new styles, but we still have to maintain Hope Valley’s essence,” Gregusova explained. This delicate balance of progression and tradition is what makes the costume design of When Calls the Heart so engaging and fun!
You can watch the full interview here:
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